Yeah, I don't think it exists. Yeah, it seems like a pretty basic function, doesn't it?
My guess is that it's possible by using extensions. I'm still on version 9, which doesn't have extensions, so I won't be much help beyond that.
If that doesn't work, perhaps you could use color for the "height" of the surface, and just plot it in two dimensions. It's not as clear as being able to rotate a three dimensional surface, but it has to be more clear than just a table of numbers.